By Heather at Exeter
Not everyone believes in ghosts, but it is true to say that stories of such have been passed down from generation to generation over the years and have become woven into the richness of local culture. To the open-minded they can inspire a sense of mystery and curiosity, while even for non-believers, the stories can still thrill and chill the reader. For some, they hold a sense of connection to people from past times, and it is important to remember that these were real people with trials and tribulations, as well as happier times.
Usually, stories of this kind are associated with those who once lived nearby, perhaps connected to a building, a point in history, or even to more recent events. There might be an element of truth in how they began, but one thing is certain: they are often tales that have become embellished or distorted from the original, as listeners interpret what they read and hear in differing ways and later re-tell the stories.
If we could travel back in time, most people would be amazed at how our neighbourhood once looked, and how the landscape has changed. For example, houses in Cordery Road, near Cowick Barton, are built on what was once a cemetery. Some of the quiet footpaths in Redhills were once busy highways for travellers on main routes to and from Crediton and Okehampton. Seemingly-endless housing estates now cover what was once a patchwork of open fields and orchards, changing the landscape forever and masking the essence of what went before.
Exe Bridge
The sounds of horses' hooves have been heard crossing the old medieval Exe Bridge, even though nothing was seen. In the past this bridge would have been a very grand approach to the City, as the ruins that still stand attest, although I doubt that the original bridge could have coped with all the traffic we have today! In the past, many horses and goods also had to cross the river by the earlier ford, as a toll had to be paid to cross by the bridge.
Cowick Street
An old coaching house in Cowick Street was later the site of Perriam's newsagent. In the early 20th Century, a lady and her close companion dog were both alarmed when a presence passed through their room there. On other occasions, the distinct perfume that one of the pre-1950 owners wore would be smelt. And in another ghostly event, an apparition of an Indian boy was seen to hover near a window. If that was not enough, on another occasion two ladies opened up space under an old staircase, but were so filled with a sense of terror that they sealed it up again. Another ghost that is said to haunt this building is that of a scruffy man whose face appears through the wall.
Cowick Barton, St Thomas
The Cowick Barton Inn was once a Tudor mansion, and the much older site itself was linked to the Norman-period Priory of Cowick. There is said to be a trapdoor and tunnels which might have been used for concealment during times of religious persecution. People claim that there is a ghostly monk who sometimes passes through houses and a field nearby. Perhaps it is this same monk who is sometimes said to be encountered inside the inn, coming through the main door and passing through the bar area. He is said to be a gentle soul, who appears mainly to people with health problems. Others say that there is a ghost of a Royalist solider, who appears to watch over them in the bedrooms there, leaning over the beds to see if they are well. The Priory itself is steeped in history, which is well worth reading about, and several graves have been found in the ground now covered by houses in Cordery Road, where it is thought a chapel once stood.
Matford Park
A gentleman was driving in the area of Matford Park on the Marsh Barton estate very early one morning after fishing on the canal. He overtook an unusual vintage car, having been waved past by a gauntletted hand. The car then vanished, leaving the man very puzzled.
Bowhill House, St Thomas
This grand building was once the family home of the Holland family, who were related to the Dukes of Exeter. It was originally built around 1500 and was much altered later, as well as being the site of Exeter's first mental hospital in 1801. It might well be thought that this house should be haunted, although the only known tale relates to a taxi driver who experienced strange things while waiting for a passenger nearby. There was a rush of wind and the feeling of someone inside the cab with him, as well as the car starting by itself and lights on the dashboard flashing; he drove off in a fright.
The Thatched House, Exwick
I was told that many years ago there was a fire in the roof and a skeleton was discovered in the chimney. I would imagine such a discovery would have been covered in the press, if it were true. The Thatched House, which is now a very popular inn, was once a quiet farm before all the houses and busy roads were built around it.
The Village Inn, Exwick
During the 1990s, people who visited the Village Inn were told that a horse and rider were sometimes seen coming through the floor by the bar. The buildings were once part of the old coaching house, and at one time the ground had supposedly been at a different level to where it is today, which explains why half of the apparition appears below the floor and half above. On looking at the Inn from the outside, it seems hard to believe that the present ground level differs much from what it was in olden times, although a deep water-filled leat did once run right past the doors on the other side of the road.
Old School House, Exwick
This is a brick building that was constructed in the 19th Century. At the south end of the main hall is a doorway leading to rooms at the back. The doorway sometimes has a dismal oppressive feel about it as people pass through.
Hamlyn's Lane, Exwick
The spirit of a shrouded woman is sometimes felt in the lane (see picture). It is thought she was buried nearby, perhaps in Medieval times. Some have felt the body of a shrouded woman being carried by two men in the lane. Others feel travellers of past times who used to pause to rest and admire the view before their final descent down the hill towards the City. It is likely that there was a route over the hill as far back as Roman times here. In recent years, schoolchildren have nicknamed the lane Vampire Alley.
The Shepherd, Exwick
The steep hills of Exwick were once, and in a few places still are, fields where flocks of sheep graze. Starting some years ago, in about 1999, several residents in one block of newer houses have felt and/or seen a shepherd, dressed in very old-fashioned clothing, passing through the rear bedrooms and upstairs landings of the block. One of the residents nicknamed this ghost 'Fred', and the nickname seems to have stuck. Searches of old maps from the pre-1900 period did reveal an ancient path through the fields that ran precisely where the affected houses now are. The residents who have witnessed 'Fred' think that he worked the Exwick farmland in some past century and his spirit still walks the same pathway today, oblivious to the houses that now straddle the old path. He is seen most commonly in the late autumn and early winter.
A few of these tales have been passed on to me by word of mouth, whereas others you can read about in more detail in the book: The Ghosts of Exeter by Sally and Chips Barber, 2004. I am sure there are more stories out there about Ghosts West of the Exe. Another book with historical facts about Exeter that makes good reading is: Two Thousand Years in Exeter by W.G. Hoskins, 1960.